SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2010
Kigali and Byumba

Although it is now February 4th, I have much to catch up on. The intensity of the training, the difficulty of getting a modem and Sim cards to get online, (slowly, that is), and the process of getting settled in Byumba has not left much time or mental energy for writing a blog. I only hope I can accurately relay the thoughts and feelings I had at the time.

ITC (In Country Training)

The city of Kigali is a huge, spread out conglomeration of new and old, beauty and ugliness and streams of all kinds of people going every which way. The traffic food chain is lorries, large buses, small buses, taxis, motos and finally, you. Each yields to the one bigger and believe me, they don’t stop.

On the streets are many handicapped people, quite obviously victims of the machetes during the genocide. I saw one beautiful, muscled man poling himself along the street, his stump of a leg at a 90 degree angle to the ground. Judging from how old he looked, he was probably a child in 1994. It breaks your heart to see the heart they must have to cope with the memories.

During the ITC, I got to know wonderful people, all so very educated and motivated. After a few days of sessions we would walk up the red, earth road to the closest bar/pub/watering hole where we would try to set the world to rights. Also, volunteers who are returning were barraged with questions and our Irish facilitator, Ruiri, was an ongoing wealth of tips and stories. Here is a photo of him explaining how to fill a kerosene cooker. Thank goodness I don’t have to use one of the smelly things. Portia, an in-your-face but delightfully so, American volunteer, is looking on skeptically!



We had Kinyarwanda lessons every morning. I certainly experienced what I know my ESL students were feeling their first days in English class. You are terrified you’ll make a fool of yourself. It seemed everyone else in the room was picking it up quickly and poor Colette and I were not. But we decided we would just go at our own pace and do the best we could. The numbers are incredible. I have them up to 40 and know how to say 1000 which is the price of many things.

I have figured out a way to convert Rwandan francs to Canadian. It something costs 1000 francs you double it, (2000), and then move the decimal three places to the left. So 1000 francs is 2.00. However, on what they give me to live on, I should only spend $12.00 CND a day.

Here is a photo taken on our way down the hill to catch a bus. Children know how to say “how are you!” and hold out their little hands for a handshake. Nikki, can you see I am using the bag you brought for me from Thailand?? It is perfect to keep my valuables zipped up!

While we were at training we were required to go to the Genocide Museum. I really didn’t want to go as reading about it before I came was frightening enough. However, I did go and I seriously regret it.
The museum takes you through the history of Rwanda, beginning with the half-hearted occupation by the Germans and then the Belgians after the Second World War. It explains how the foreign powers orchestrated the genocide, convincing the Hutus that it was their duty to annihilate the Tutsis. It was horrible, pictures of bodies, devastation and even displays of other genocides, such as the holocaust, that have occurred throughout history.

The last display was about the children, thousands of photos of children who were killed. As I left the museum some of the others were already sitting on the benches outside and I sat down next to Ken, one of the other volunteers. I was so grateful that he put his hand on my shoulder as I broke down in sobs and couldn’t stop. I kept trying to imagine what I would have done to save my children. I wish I hadn’t gone. It took many nights before I could get to sleep easily.

Here are pics of Christine’s and my very basic room at the Amani Guest House. Those hanging-down things are mosquito nets.



Two days before our employees came to pick us up we had a day of shopping. VSO gave us 100,000 Rfr to spend on household items so we all traipsed down to “The Chinese”, a kind of supermarket owned by a Chinese lady named Miel, to try and guess what our unseen accommodation needed.

What a zoo, twenty of us piling pots, sheets, mops, utensils, etc. in a large wash tub that one needs to have in their shower, (mine is large enough to soak my bones). I blithely collected what I thought I needed, not worrying about the amount but, when it came time to pay, I was about 48,000 Rfr. short.

The next morning, Jeremy helped me find my way into town, find a money-changer to convert my few US dollars to francs and then pay for my purchases. We arrived back in time to meet our new employers.

Penina, the head of the education department for the Diocese in Byumba, was the person who came to collect me. She speaks very little English but we managed to get through the many exercises they had prepared for us to get to know one another and to learn what each of our expectations are.

For our last night together, we all walked, torches in hand, to a much larger bar where we said our goodbyes and wished one another well. It’s amazing how close you can get to people when you spend all day, each day, for 10 days.

Next morning, Penina arrived at 9:00, and on time, (miracles will never cease). Some of the other volunteers waited until early afternoon for their employers. The driver, Ephraim, loaded my stuff into the little pick-up along with a new mattress, (it’s really crappy, though).

The drive to Byumba is just over an hour and stunningly beautiful. The hills are all terraced and emerald green. Along the way I saw rice paddies, sugar cane fields and vegetable fields. The roads are filled with people.

Per capita, Rwanda has 281 people to one square kilometre. The population of Byumba is 70,500 and the population of Rwanda is 7,398,074, according to Wikepedia. Being a predominantly Catholic country, birth control is not really practised.

Here are a few pics of my little house. It’s about the same size as my apartment in Japan but very crudely built. The walls are cracked and the plumbing is constantly leaking even though Gaetan has already been here to fix it. You know me, Mrs. Clean so I launched in with scrubbing until I had to stop to let my wrists get better.

These were taken as I arrived. I am somewhat settled now.

I have a domestique and her name is Rosa. She only speaks French and Kinyarwanda but through an interpreter, we have an agreement. She will do my washing, cleaning, shopping and cooking for two days food for 2000 fr a week.

This morning she came and worked with me. We scrubbed down the walls, furniture, windows and doors. The floor is cleaned by sloshing water on the concrete, sprinkle a little cleanser, swish it around with your broom and then squeegee it out the door and onto the grass. The joint even smells clean although the cow aroma occasionally wafts in.

My week here has been frustrating but also interesting. So far the only official thing that’s happened is my employer has taken me to meet officials, at the Sector and also at the District level. (Very important people). I am responsible for getting a “green card” so we spent an entire morning trying to get our “ducks all lined up.”

I am hoping to get out and into the schools next week.

Today is Saturday and I have the weekend off. I am reading a book about southern Africa, Covenant by James Michener so I can relax in the sun or I can try and figure out my I-Pod or I can organize my contacts.

At this time I can't figure out how to insert the photos. I give up for now! Will figure it out and include them in my next post. smg
POSTED BY SHALA'S IN BYUMBA, RWANDA AT 3:07 AM 1 COMMENTS
THURSDAY, JANUARY 21, 2010
Amsterdam
Amsterdam, January 15th, Friday, 2010
The plane was late leaving Montreal last night but we arrived in Amsterdam this morning at about 1:45 AM Ottawa time, Saturday, January 16th, ( 7:45 Amsterdam time). As usual, my legs were electric, (that’s what I call it when they twitch as I begin to relax), so I didn’t sleep. I was surprised, however, that the flight was actually just over five hours.
Since arriving, I’ve been a zombie, too tired to study Kinyarwandan, read my book or even listen to my new I-pod. I have found various places in this huge airport where I could “catch 40 winks.” The softest place was upstairs at the McDonald’s.
It is now 11:20 Ottawa time but here it is 5:20. I will stay awake now until I get on the flight to Nairobi leaving at 2:40 Ottawa time, 8:40 Amsterdam time so that means I have three more hours to kill.
I will arrive in Nairobi at 7:00 tomorrow morning, Nairobi time, which I think is nine hours ahead of Calgary so seven hours ahead of Ottawa. Therefore, I think it will be midnight in Ottawa when I arrive in Nairobi. How confusing, eh?
Then, I fly to Kigali after only a little more than an hours wait and arrive in Kigali at 8:10 Rwanda time. I dearly hope someone is there to meet me!

Flights from Amsterdam
Finally it was time to board the plane. I was starving as the McDonald’s meal was not that satisfying. I had expected that we would eat right after take-off but they offered drinks first which took a lot of time. After dinner was finished I took one of Erica’s relaxation pills, as she called them, because my legs were going crazy again. I waited and waited but it didn’t seem to help so I took the other one. Big mistake.
I don’t even remember changing planes in Nairobi. When I arrived in Kigali I was met by two women who quickly realized I was at the very least, drunk. The put me in a wheelchair, collected my luggage and brought me to the housing complex where we are all staying for a week’s training. I did explain, though, that I wasn’t drunk!

They were all having dinner when I arrived. I remember eating spinach and the names of a few people but the rest of the evening is a blur. This morning several people commented that I kept falling asleep at the table. This is a lovely bunch of people and they have been so kind.
I remember excusing myself and headed for my bed. (I am sharing a room with a great Australian girl named Christine). I absolutely died until 7:30 the next morning. I joined the group for breakfast feeling rested and excited for my adventure to begin.
After breakfast we met as a group of about 20 for ICT or In Country Training. First they went over the basics about health, again!, the local hierarchy for help and support and basic safety such as traffic, motos, purse-snatching, and what to do if you have an accident. We were also told that Burundi is not that safe to visit and that visiting the Congo was prohibited.
After lunch we were taken downtown to buy cell phones. My cell phone is your very most basic variety and cost 7,000 Rwandan francs. VSO has given me a SIM card which apparently will enable me to get internet. This internet stuff is all very confusing as other people say I need to buy a modem.
Back at our living quarters we had a session on kerosene lamps, kerosene cookers, (stoves), and charcoal cookers. Thank GOD I don’t have to use the smelly things as I am extremely lucky to have fairly reliable electricity and I will have an electric ring, (single hot plate, I think!). I am told, also, that I even have an oven so I can bake! Yaaa!
As the sun began to set I started to worry that the mosquitos would come out and I was a sitting duck. At that very moment, the session was brought to a close and we were told to go and put on repellent. I also remembered to take my malaria pill. It’s going to be quite an adjustment to remember to take it every day!
Dinner was a 7:00 and as I looked over the city, there was a bright, yellow sliver of a moon hovering in a black sky. Very beautiful.
I must tell you about the buses. The first bus we took was like our 7-seater vans. Believe it or not, they crammed 16 of us into one and we were told there was room for 3 more. There is no pollution or emission control here and it was horrible trying to breathe when another belching bus was ahead of us. The bus drivers on both the to and from buses agreed to an amount to be paid for the trip and then after we got underway, insisted that the price was higher. There was a lot of yelling and I’m quite sure the ladies in charge did not pay more than was originally agreed upon.
Tomorrow we are being addressed by Ambassador Nick Cannon from the British Embassy. At some point I will have to be registered at the Canadian Embassy.
Tomorrow, also, we will learn the finance and form-filling procedures and as well, a session on Rwandan culture. I did learn today that it is quite acceptable to take a cell phone call when you are in the middle of a meeting, conversation, or presentation.
This morning I took a COLD shower. Since then we have learned that the shower head is much like the units in Mexico; you can have hot water on demand.
Still in Kigali
January 19, 2010
Not much sleep last night as there was loud conversation outside our window until midnight and the Muslim singer began at 5:00.
This morning we started our Kinyarwanda lessons. The pronunciation that I had practised from what I found on the internet is a very watered down version of the actual sounds which I am having a devil of a time making. The mw sounds are the hardest, e.g. mwaramutse which means, generally, good morning but really means, “did you pass a good night.” Also, mwiriwe which means good afternoon.
I can say, my name is Shala. Nitwa Grindlay Shala! Then I can say, “And you?” Wowe se. Learning this language is going to be my greatest challenge while I’m here.
At eleven we were transported to the British Embassy where Ambassador Nick Cannon gave us a rundown of Rwandan history from colonial times to the present. He was extremely well-spoken and informative as well as quite funny. They had treats for us, even chocolate cake.
Back here for lunch and then a session on Finance and form-filling. The facilitators were Rwandan and I hardly understood a thing they said. The combination of my hearing loss, background noise and their accent made it impossible to make out what was being said but luckily my roommate Christine explained it all to me afterwards. We were given our allotment for the first three months and instructed how to go about opening a bank account. I will have to wait until I get to Byumba to do that as I need to bank in my town.
After the afternoon break we had a long session on Rwandan etiquette. For example, it is not acceptable to eat or drink on the street, public places or on taxis or buses. Ladies thighs are not to be shown. Do not show public displays of affection. It is acceptable for men to walk hand in hand.
I am very tired tonight and am ready to hit the sack.
POSTED BY SHALA'S IN BYUMBA, RWANDA AT 12:06 PM 1 COMMENTS
FRIDAY, JANUARY 15, 2010
NOT flying to Montreal!
Imagine my surprise when I handed the airline agent my itinerary and discovered that I was NOT flying to Montreal, I was going by train. Although the itinerary says KLM Dutch Airlines, in another section, in small print, it says Ottawa RR Station. So, here I am in the train station, an hour early.

I am rather pleased with myself that I have successfully packed my suitcases so that my big ones are exactly 50 lbs. each and my carry-on is around 20 lbs. Not sure how much my 'purse' weighs though! I was even able to get my new hot-pink motorcycle helmet in. Initially, I thought I would have to wear it on the plane!!
POSTED BY SHALA'S IN BYUMBA, RWANDA AT 9:54 AM 2 COMMENTS
LABELS: NOT FLYING TO MONTREAL
Older Posts
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)
FOLLOWERS

BLOG ARCHIVE
• ▼ 2010 (8)
o ▼ February (5)
 A Key Day
 Now I Know Why I Feel Lousy
 February 18, 2010 Although I have much to tell ab...
 Soggy Sunday
 Kigali and Byumba
o ► January (3)
 Amsterdam
 NOT flying to Montreal!
 Ottawa, January 5 to January 15th

ABOUT ME
SHALA'S IN BYUMBA, RWANDA
VIEW MY COMPLETE PROFILE